We Do The Hoodoos

Monday, July 17, 2006

Today we find ourselves in Dinosaur Provincial Park, after an early morning drive north from Writing On Stone Provincial Park.

The day before yesterday we drove through southern Saskatchewan along the Red Coat Trail. This is a government that apparently names its roads literally. While there were patches of asphalt, there were also long stretches of soupy gravel that demanded constant attention to the steering wheel. (Mind you, we chose this route.) Again, we were overwhelmed by the endless skies and flat, flat fields. Wheat is still very green and only the canola and occasional flax field provide some colour.

Who would have thought that one could drive from full to empty without ever encountering a gas station? We didn’t quite manage to empty the tank but came close until we found in Orion a very small, very old grocery with gas tanks set up on a truck around back and a very weathered gentleman to serve us. As we left, a cowboy – black hat, boots, jeans & white t-shirt – was sitting on the stoop, legs outstretched, having just driven up in his truck. It was such a great photo but I couldn’t think of a way to ask.

Writing On Stone Provincial Park was one of those inspired guesses that each of us occasionally make. Driving through more flat grasslands we came suddenly on the Milk River valley and the thousands of hoodoos that line its sides. The campground nestles alongside the river, which is warm and inviting and provided a wonderful swim to end the day.

We got up with the sun to photograph the hoodoos in the morning light and then set out for Dinosaur Provincial Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Really, the only comparison that is suitable is coming upon the Grand Canyon from the north side. One moment there are grasslands, next moment you’re staring at a bloody great river valley filled with hoodoos and steep weathered cliffs. (See pix)

At night we are treated to tremendous winds – but no clouds – and Ian has to get up and reset a tent peg. Tuesday morning we get up early to hike the Cottonwood Trail, Ian gets treated to bacon & eggs for breakfast, and we head out to Calgary.