Land of Dreams

Denali National Park

August 6 to 8th - Denali National Park, Alaska

Ian is having a beer - at lunch! Unheard of! He is celebrating.  This is because he has performed a masterful parking job getting us into a spot in Denali’s Teklanika campsite, 29 miles inside the park. We are the only 5th wheel here. Everyone else is in truck campers or small motorhomes. Just before leaving the Grizzly Bear campground south of the park we were treated to an amazing display of 5th wheel virtuosity when a neighbour driving a 35’ fifth wheel did a three-point turn in about the same time as one might turn around a small car. We applauded and he was good enough to give us some pointers. (One of which I used to get parked today.)

Grizzly sow and cub

Big excitement. On the way into the park we see our first grizzly. And our first guy on a bicycle as I came up behind them. I was so impressed! As the bear approached he dismounted, held the bike between himself and the bear and stood his ground. When the bear got to about 15 ft, it finally turned away. And there am I trying to figure out how I can help if it attacks, so much that I forget to take photos! A shame, because none of his friends are going to believe him when he tells this story.

Dall sheep - This is NOT photoshopped!

August 7& 8 - Denali National Park

Two glorious days! No private cars are allowed in the park but they run shuttle buses all day long. It is these that we travel on both days. We see grizzlies, fox, moose, wolves, golden eagles, Dall sheep and lots of caribou. Today we got off at the Eielson Visitors’ Center and hiked down to the river bed and then along and up into the tundra plateau. Tougher going than we’d expected. Lots of low plants that tried to break our ankles and plenty of willows to hide bears. ( It didn’t help that we saw a grizzly just as we reached the river bed. It was eating blueberries and wasn’t at all interested in us.) The hillsides were steep and at one point I think we both wondered if this was a mistake. Walking along the edge of plateau - to avoid the ankle-twisting brush - the wind was strong enough to make me concerned about losing my glasses. 

Golden Eagle

Caribou

But perseverance rewards the stout of heart and we made our way back to the road without mishap. Only two minutes later a bus picked us up for the return journey. Just flag them down and hop on. IF there are seats. Our bus filled up very quickly and we left a number of campers at the edge of the road hoping the next one would have spaces.

Denali - Mt McKinley

And then there’s the mountain. I’m pretty blaze´ about mountains. Seen a lot in a lot of countries. So I wasn’t really sure what all the fuss was about; whether one could see Denali (Mt. McKinley). Yesterday it was mostly covered in cloud and I gather that’s pretty standard. Well today was clear and the mountain was glorious! It towers over its neighbours, cloaked in snow, gleaming in the sun. It’s the perfect backdrop. Wow!
Denali is a magnificent park; it combines grandeur and majesty with beauty and silence. In a strange way it feels like coming home and yet everything is new and exciting. I understand why people keep returning here. I’m wondering if I’m too old to do a backcountry trip.