The day starts off dreary - cold and wet - and we must sort out our plans. Yesterday we spent time at the visitor centre of Wrangell-St.Elias National Park and it confirmed our desire to see something of the park. This park is immense! Bigger than Switzerland with higher mountains. Unfortunately we’re not going to see a damn thing in this weather and we reluctantly agree to push on. It would be a slow drive down rough roads with only clouds and mist.
The highway heading north to Tok is described in The Milepost as “good road going bad” . There are lots of frost heaves which throw things around in the rig. (Literally, “throw things around”. Even at 40 km/hr the couch has moved, its pillows are upside down, and the sink stopper is nowhere to be found.
What we do find is water. Water dripping from the bottom of the rig. Water dripping at the front, over the spare tire and water dripping at the rear, by the stabilizers. Hell, I don’t know where it’s coming from. It’s not blue, so it’s not from the toilet holding tank. If it’s still leaking later I’ll taste it: No taste = fresh water tank, soapy taste = either the kitchen or the shower. (The knowledge may be comforting, but there’s nothing I can do to fix it. When we get to Haines, I’ll phone Heartland for suggestions.)
Have I mentioned that I’m writing this enclosed in a giant mosquito tent? We found it on sale at a Fred Myer’s and decided that it might be useful. Tonight it’s not mossies, but some sort of midge that find the inside of my ears and nose extremely attractive. I expect that Alysha will claim it when we get home as it actually provides some protection from those annoying wasps when working on the computer outside.
I’m off to BBQ some scallops and shrimp for tonight’s dinner.
Sunday, August 29th - a rest stop looking out at the Kluane range, Yukon
We turned right at Tok and in doing so, began our journey towards home. We’re both feeling a little wistful; neither ready to call it quits. We console ourselves with the knowledge that we have thousands of miles of unseen country in front of us - including the Inland Passage. We travel south on the Alaska Highway past Trumpeter Swans in pothole lakes and miles and miles of taiga. ( Numero Uno moose country - where are they?) If the Tok Cut Off was “good road going bad”, as soon as we cross over into the Yukon the Alaska Highway south is “bad road going to Hell” The road is built over permafrost and the civil engineers have yet to solve this problem. The frost heaves are immense and speckled with 6” deep potholes. At one point I’m driving 10 mph and meet a sign that reads “Reduce Speed”! ( The shift from the US to Canada is funny; in Alaska, the road sign says “Drive with Caution!”; in Canada - “Please Drive with Caution!”) And muddy! We’ve got a “soft focus” thing happening on our windows. All that previous rain had kept the truck & rig pretty clean. Now we’re back to tan with overtones of caramel and chocolate and you can’t open a door without getting mud on you somewhere.
Dar has the keen eye today. She sees the swans and eventually two cow moose browsing the grass at the edge of a pond.
Dinner tonight is pizza. My job is to lie on my back, force my right hand below the pilot light and flick the BBQ lighter while Dar turns on the oven. Heartland - the manufacturer - has some ‘splaining to do. This is uncomfortable and awkward. There must be a better way. (I need a 24” BBQ lighter)
OBSERVATIONS:
- Weathertech floor mats are bloody wonderful!
- In Alaska, there are turnouts every few miles and - by and large - they’ve been leveled, even if you’re coming off a hill (Just perfect for overnighting.) In the Yukon, there are relatively few turnouts and they tend to follow the slope of the hill. Not so good for camping.
- The Milepost - a book detailing the Alaska Highway - is priceless! Thank you, Joel! ( The Milepost tells you every turnoff, every pullout, every bridge, every rest area along the way. As well as information on every town and business (thriving, expired or ghost) that you meet. ( This might seem superfluous until you realize that, because of the trees and brush, you can’t actually see any of this until you just passed it!
- In Alaska, at almost every dock and waterfront there are “free to use” lifejackets for children, sponsored by the “Kids Don’t Float!” program.
- It’s August 29th, and Alaska is getting ready for winter:
- Moose season opened for those who depend on the meat.
- The RV parks start closing Labour Day Weekend
- Bill, beside me in Valdez’s RV park, has bought all his anti-freeze for his trailer and boat.
- The foliage has started to turn
- Question asked of a gas attendant at Burwash: “When do you usually get your first snow?”
Monday, Aug 30th - Dezadeash (Dez-dee-ash) Campground, YK
We drive south-east down the Alaska Highway and decide to camp just south of Haines Junction. The road has gone from horrible to fantastic; from the worst road ever driven to the very best, (Could they have finished it yesterday? I could believe that we were the first to drive it, were it not for other cars & trucks going both ways.) It is the result of the Shakwak Agreement that sees the US pave a Yukon highway since 85% of the users are American.
The trip involves many stops for photos. Lots of colour here. The fireweed is raving scarlet. Ian drives because Darlene has a wicked cold. Some Tylenol purchased at the junction seems to do the trick until we set up camp and then she has a monster nosebleed. (Ian refrains from taking photos.)
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| Fireweed |
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| Closed? It's August 31st! |
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